Friday, March 14, 2014

Cuir c1939

Cuir by Lancome: originally launched in 1936 as Révolte. The name was changed to Cuir in 1939 as the name Révolte was being used by another company in South America.

The perfume was created by Armand Petitjean.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is an intense leather perfume with floral notes. Begins with a dizzying, rough, sharp aldehydic top note, it softens overtime as the fragrance unfolds roses, carnations and violets in the heart. A dry, leathery base makes this discreet enough to be worn by men as well. It blends the aroma of flowers with the oriental smell of leather.
  • Top notes: aldehydes, bergamot
  • Middle notes: rose, carnation, violet
  • Base notes: leather, tobacco, balsam, vanilla, musk, amber, oakmoss, sandalwood

A 1945 Lancome perfume catalog describes it as:
"Parfum ardent, plein de vibrations, sec, qui assoupli par des touches délicates, mariant des odeurs de peau fine et de fleurs aux senteur étranges du cuir. Assez fleuri en raffiné pour être un délicieux parfum de femme, aussi discret insinuant qu'il faut pour prendre rang parmi les meilleurs parfums d'homme." 
"Fragrant, vibrant, dry, softened by delicate touches, marrying smells of fine skin and flowers with strange scents of leather. Refined pretty flowers to be a delicious perfume for a woman, also discreet, insinuating that it is necessary to take rank among the best perfumes of man."


In 1943 it was presented in a bottle designed by J. Sala and Canopies  and manufactured by Verrières de la Bresle. The square bottle, decorated with thick straps crossed out of massive, glossed and polished glass. The box in cube form, with lid and flip-top, is richly decorated with luxurious and refined illuminations. The white and gold architecture frames 5 painted panels, furnished with satin ivory inside. The square box is decorated with does and flowers, inspired by a "livre d'heures" that F. Coty offered to G. Delhomme. G. Delhomme was the creator of this perfume, and the the glass maker was Bresle.

The 1945 Lancome perfume catalog describes as:
"Flacon créé par Lancôme: carré en verre massif, décoré en lanières épaisses et croisées, satiné et repoli. écrin de forme cubique, à couvercle, et abattant, richement décoré sur fond grainé maroquin d'une architecture blanc et or encadrant cinq panneaux peints et garni intérieurement de satin ivoire." 
"Flacon created by Lancôme: square in solid glass, decorated in satin and repolished thick, crossed straps. Box with cover and shelf, richly decorated on grained morocco background of a white and gold architecture framing five painted panels and internally lined with ivory satin."

The bottle was available in three sizes:
  • 1 oz (Lancome catalog reference number 6002)
  • 2 oz (Lancome catalog reference number 6003)
  • 3 oz (Lancome catalog reference number 6004)

 Etoile Flacon:

A limited edition from 1944 consisted of a star shaped clear glass perfume bottle designed by Jean Sala, with its polychrome cardboard box designed by Georges Delhomme, numbered, H 12 cm.

Standard Bottles:

Other bottles included the standard Lancome square bottle with the rounded shoulders and jasmine intaglio stopper. Some sellers attribute this bottle to Lalique, but it was not made by Lalique.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.  D uring WWII, importations of Lancome fragrances such as Tropiques, Tendres Nuit, Fleches, Cuir, Conquete, Bocages, Peut Etre, and Kypre were halted and did not return to US soil until 1946. Still being sold in 1952.

Reformulated by Calice Becker with citrus notes replacing the sparkling aldehydes, added notes of jasmine, ylang ylang and iris. It was relaunched in 2005 as part of the Lancôme Collection. Available in both eau de parfum and eau de toilette.

  • Top notes: bergamot, mandarin, saffron 
  • Middle notes: jasmine, ylang-ylang, hawthorn, patchouli 
  • Base notes: orris, birch, styrax

It was reformulated in 2007 and relaunched again.

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