Cuir by Lancome c1939

Cuir by Lancome: originally launched in 1936 as Révolte. The name was changed to Cuir in 1939 as the name Révolte was being used by another company in South America.

The perfume was created by Armand Petitjean.

Fragrance Composition:

So what does it smell like? It is an intense leather perfume with floral notes. Begins with a dizzying, rough, sharp aldehydic top note, it softens overtime as the fragrance unfolds roses, spicy carnations and violets in the heart. A dry, leathery base makes this discreet enough to be worn by men as well. It blends the aroma of flowers and tobacco with the oriental smell of leather. This is a clear, determined leather perfume. Below the leather fragrance is an elusive scent of a mixed bouquet of French garden flowers.

• Top notes: aldehydes, Calabrian bergamot
• Middle notes: Grasse rose, French carnation, Parma violet, jasmine
• Base notes: leather, Virginia tobacco, balsam, Madagascar vanilla, Tibetan musk, ambergris, Yugoslavian oakmoss, Mysore sandalwood

Le Petit Parisien : journal quotidien du soir, 1941:

"As for Cuir, as its name reveals, it enshrines the unexpected success of the strange marriage of flowers with the tawny smell of leather."

A 1945 Lancome perfume catalog describes it as:

"Parfum ardent, plein de vibrations, sec, qui assoupli par des touches délicates, mariant des odeurs de peau fine et de fleurs aux senteur étranges du cuir. Assez fleuri en raffiné pour être un délicieux parfum de femme, aussi discret insinuant qu'il faut pour prendre rang parmi les meilleurs parfums d'homme." 

"Fragrant, vibrant, dry, softened by delicate touches, marrying smells of fine skin and flowers with strange scents of leather. Refined pretty flowers to be a delicious perfume for a woman, also discreet, insinuating that it is necessary to take rank among the best perfumes of man."

La Femme Chic, 1945:

"Cuir de Lancome seems to us to be the most skillful creation in the ambiguous genre, that is to say, suitable as a men's or women's perfume. Flowery and refined enough to be a delicious woman's perfume; as dry, discreet and insinuating as it needs to be to be an excellent men's perfume. It combines the slightly brown notes of leather with the softness of the skin and the light scents of violet and carnation. Undeniable success."

Times Colonist, 1946:

"An ardent perfume, full of vibrations, sharp yet softened by delicate touches, uniting the attractive odor of fine skins, and the perfume of flowers, with the elusive and fascinating smell of leather. Sufficiently refined and flowery to be a delightful perfume for women, dry, discreet and insinuating enough to take its place amongst the best perfumes for men."

Bottle:

In 1943 it was presented in a bottle designed by J. Sala and Canopies  and manufactured by Verrières de la Bresle. The square bottle, decorated with thick straps crossed out of massive, glossed and polished glass. The box in cube form, with lid and flip-top, is richly decorated with luxurious and refined illuminations. The white and gold architecture frames 5 painted panels, furnished with satin ivory inside. The square box is decorated with does and flowers, inspired by a "livre d'heures" that F. Coty offered to G. Delhomme. G. Delhomme was the creator of this perfume, and the the glass maker was Bresle.

The 1945 Lancome perfume catalog describes as:

"Flacon créé par Lancôme: carré en verre massif, décoré en lanières épaisses et croisées, satiné et repoli. écrin de forme cubique, à couvercle, et abattant, richement décoré sur fond grainé maroquin d'une architecture blanc et or encadrant cinq panneaux peints et garni intérieurement de satin ivoire." 

"Flacon created by Lancôme: square in solid glass, decorated in satin and repolished thick, crossed straps. Box with cover and shelf, richly decorated on grained morocco background of a white and gold architecture framing five painted panels and internally lined with ivory satin."

The bottle was available in three sizes:

• 1 oz (Lancome catalog reference number 6002)
• 2 oz (Lancome catalog reference number 6003)
• 3 oz (Lancome catalog reference number 6004)

 Etoile Flacon:

The "Cuir" star shaped perfume bottle crafted by the designer Jean Sala and its exquisite polychrome cardboard presentation box designed by the esteemed Georges Delhomme, is a notable creation from 1939, with a limited edition version released in 1942-1944. This exquisite perfume bottle features a body made from blown molded glass, showcasing the high level of craftsmanship and attention to detail characteristic of Lancôme's luxurious offerings. The stopper, made from pressed molded glass, complements the bottle's elegant design, adding a touch of sophistication and refinement.

The presentation of the perfume is equally remarkable, housed in a box designed by Georges Delhomme, which simulates a mosaic binding adorned with a depiction of Cupid. This decorative element adds a romantic and classical charm to the presentation, enhancing the overall aesthetic appeal of the product. The box is marked with "Lancôme" in gold letters, emphasizing the brand's prestige and luxurious reputation. Despite some wear on the inside of the casing, the presentation retains its beauty and historical value.

The bottle itself is complete with a gold label inscribed with "Cuir - Lancôme - France," and the brand name "Lancôme France" is embossed in relief under the base, signifying the authenticity and origin of the product. Measuring 12.5 cm in height, the bottle is a compact yet elegant piece, while the box dimensions are 4.5 x 17 x 12.8 cm. This combination of exquisite design, fine craftsmanship, and luxurious presentation makes the "Cuir" perfume by Lancôme a treasured collectible and a testament to the brand's legacy in the world of high-end perfumery.

Standard Bottles:

Other bottles included the standard Lancome square bottle with the rounded shoulders and jasmine intaglio stopper. Some sellers attribute this bottle to Lalique, but it was not made by Lalique.

Fate of the Fragrance:

Discontinued, date unknown.  D uring WWII, importations of Lancome fragrances such as Tropiques, Tendres Nuit, Fleches, Cuir, Conquete, Bocages, Peut Etre, and Kypre were halted and did not return to US soil until 1946. 

A 1946 newspaper ad stated that "The first envoy of the French perfume industry arrived in America a short time ago. Mme. Elsi Cramer, a representative for Lancome, had much to say about American women and the subject of perfume. Madame claims that the American woman chooses many scents but never really tries to discover anything about perfume bases, the floral mixtures, or how the perfume is packaged. She is primarily interested in which scent will last the longest. Mme. Cramer declares that no one should ask that of any perfume! Instead, she says, that by carrying a small vial of your favorite perfume and dabbing on a few drops once of twice during the course of the evening, you will find that your perfume will achieve its purpose of being fresh and 'just put on.' 

Tropiques, Fleches, Cuir, Kypre, Conquete, Qui Sait (pronounced key-say, Who Knows?) and Bocages are the newest perfumes in her line. The artistic packaging and the bottles themselves have been perfected after many long years of searching for the right thing.

American women once again may thrill to the wonderful French perfumes. And Mme. Cramer said that the formulas for these very same scents were closely guarded during the German occupation of France. So the return of French perfumes to the American market should mean a little more than just a comment of "oh, some more sweet smelling stuff has just arrived!" Taken into account should be the hard work, the scarcity of materials to work with and the hardships endured during the period when France was subjugated. Your perfume will mean much more to you when you think of those things."

Still being sold in 1952.

Reformulated by Calice Becker with citrus notes replacing the sparkling aldehydes, added notes of jasmine, ylang ylang and iris. It was relaunched in 2005 as part of the Lancôme Collection. Available in both eau de parfum and eau de toilette.

• Top notes: bergamot, mandarin, saffron 
• Middle notes: jasmine, ylang-ylang, hawthorn, patchouli 
• Base notes: orris, birch, styrax

It was reformulated in 2007 and relaunched again.