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Saturday, August 1, 2015

Tresor by Lancome c1952

Trésor by Lancôme: launched in 1952. The name means "Treasure" in French.





Original Fragrance Composition:


So what does it smell like? It is classified as a semi-oriental floral fragrance for women.
  • Top notes: Moroccan rose, Alpine lilac and Dutch lily of the valley
  • Heart notes: Chinese gardenia, Ispahan roses, Egyptian jasmine, French carnation, spices, Tunisian orange blossom, Georgia peach and apricot
  • Base notes: leather, incense, civet, Seychelles patchouli, green leaves, resins, balm, Mysore sandalwood, Atlas cedar, ambergris and Tibetan musk

Combat, 1952:
"Exotic scents. A swarm of bees crosses Lancome's enchanted garden in "Fleches", permeated with the warm breath of the "Tropiques". But in the tangle of lianas and flowers with vermilion calyxes hides the “Tresor”, a diamond rose, shrouded in embalmed light."


Combat, 1954:
"Eau parfumée a Tresor de Lancome: The aroma of precious woods blends here with the fine scent of leather, the light intoxication of incense, the warm support of civet, and a delicately fruity je ne sais quoi, to amplify the sweet breath of a bouquet of Ispahan roses and Chinese gardenias. One thinks of a golden princess dressed in Paris. Having been lotioned with perfumed water in this way, her frail body adds a pompous sensuality in the folds of the dress, draped for some night party."



It was available in Parfum, Cologne and Eau Parfumee.

Bottles:




Tresor's parfum was presented in an inverted pyramid flacon, brilliantly faceted like a huge diamond,  made to be held in one's hand, designed by Georges Delhomme. This deluxe flacon, known as "Le Diamant", was available in two sizes: 1 oz and 2 oz. This was generally promoted around Christmastime and the 1 oz bottle retailed for $40 and the 2 oz retailed for $70 in 1953.


Harper's Bazaar, 1953:
"Lancome's new "Tresor," just landed from France, is treasured in a bottle like a great dark diamond."



The Goutte d'Eau flacon was inspired by antique Venetian glass jewelry. It holds just over 0.25 oz of parfum. This retailed for $9 in 1953.







Fate of the Fragrance:


Discontinued, date unknown. It was still being sold in the 1960s.

Trésor by Lancôme was reformulated by Sophia Grojsman of IFF and relaunched in 1990. It is classified as a floral oriental fragrance for women. "At first breath, rose, muguet and lilac with an apricot blossom. Soon after, heliotrope and iris. Ultimately, a profusion of sandalwood, amber and musk."
  • Top notes: pineapple, lilac, peach, apricot blossom, lily-of-the-valley, bergamot, rose
  • Middle notes: iris, jasmine, heliotrope, rose
  • Base notes: orris, apricot, sandalwood, amber, musk, vanilla

Lancome made use of the aroma chemical Galaxolide by IFF for its Tresor fragrance, it’s long lasting, powerful, soft and sensual. You may recognize the distinct scent from its presence in Jovan's famous Musk line. Lancome also used IFF'S Iso E Super aroma chemical in the creation of Tresor. This provides a a woody-amber odor and is also found in Dolce & Gabbana's famous Light Blue and Terre d'Hermes.

Marketing:


Actress and model Isabella Rossellini served as Lancôme's spokesperson for nine years before being selected as the “face” of Trésor. Parfums Lancôme stated that Rossellini was the inspiration for the newly created perfume. The actress helped choose the fragrance and design the packaging. Rossellini accepted a multi-million dollar contract with Lancôme to represent the fragrance for seven years, appearing in numerous promotional tours and magazine advertisements. Rossellini would also receive 5% royalties, the industry average, on the sale of Trésor, which was expected to do more than $30 million at the wholesale level in its first year..

Rossellini visited parts of the United States and Canada on behalf of Cosmair as part of a promotional tour for the Trésor fragrance and its newly introduced bath line products, Les Trésors de Bain. She appeared at cosmetics counters of upscale department stores, such as Macy's, Bullock’s, Filene’s, Marshall Field’s and Eaton’s, offering autographs to thank the thousands of beauty and film fans who purchased the fragrance. Rossellini signed autographs of Lancôme promotional materials and bottles of the perfume.

Rossellini said of Trésor “the trace it leaves is very womanly...with a green note that is modern.”

After her contract with Lancôme was up in 1996, Rossellini went on to work with another beauty company, Coty, Inc as vice president and launched her own fragrance, Manifesto.


Bottle:


Presented in the new styled bottle shown below designed by Areca of Style Marque, manufactured in France by Saver Glass.



  • Trésor by Lancôme Eau Parfumee: launched in 1990
  • Trésor by Lancôme Eau de Toilette: launched in 1990
  • Trésor by Lancôme Eau Fraicheur: launched in 1990

Flankers & Limited Edition Fragrances:


2006 Trésor Sheer Rose/Tresor Rose D'Amour. Limited edition. The juice was reworked to highlight the rose ingredient. There was a rose engraving on the packaging, and a ring around the cap. Discontinued.
 
2006 Trésor Eau de Printemps Sheer Fragrance, launched as a limited edition. Created by Dominique Ropion. Discontinued.
  • Top notes are clementine, litchi, red currant and black currant
  • Middle notes are peach blossom, rose, camellia and lily-of-the-valley
  • Base notes are sandalwood, musk and vanilla. 
 
2007 Trésor Eau Etincelante (Trésor Sparkling). A limited edition edt created by Sophia Grojsman and Aliénor Massenet. Presented in a 45 ml bottle. Discontinued.
  • Top notes: pear, pink pepper and bergamot
  • Middle notes: rose otto and violet
  • Base notes: sandalwood, musk, heliotrope, labdanum and incense. 

2007 Trésor Elixir. Discontinued.
  • Top notes are violet and peach
  • Middle notes are honey, Bulgarian rose, heliotrope and cedar
  • Base notes are sandalwood, musk, vanilla and vetiver. 

2008 Tresor Eau Legere Sheer. Discontinued.
  • Top notes are bergamot and peach
  • Middle notes are rose and freesia
  • Base notes are sandalwood and patchouli. 

2009 Trésor Lancôme, a flanker to 'Trésor' with additional notes of bergamot, white pepper and freesia accord.

 
2010 Trésor In Love. Created by Dominique Ropion and Véronique Nyberg.  30, 50 and 75 ml flacons. Still sold in 2022.
  • Top notes: nectarine, bergamot, peach and sour pear
  • Middle notes: Turkish rose, violet and jasmine
  • Base notes: cedar.
 
2011 Trésor L’Absolu Desir. An edp created by Dominique Ropion with notes of rose, jasmine, cedar and vanilla. Presented in a 45ml EDP bottle. Discontinued.
 
2011 Trésor Midnight Rose. Created by Anne Flipo. Still sold in 2022.
  • Top notes: raspberry, rose absolute
  • Middle notes: jasmine, peony, currant buds, pink pepper
  • Base notes: Virginia cedar, musk and vanilla. 
 
2012 Tresor In Love La Coquette Limited Edition. Created by Dominique Ropion and Veronique Nyberg. Discontinued.
  • Top notes are bergamot, pink pepper, pear and nectarine
  • Middle notes are jasmine, rose, violet and peach
  • Base notes are musk and Virginia cedar. 
 
2012 Tresor Midnight Rose La Coquette Limited Edition. Discontinued.
  • Top notes are rose and raspberry
  • Middle notes are cassis, peony, jasmine and pink pepper
  • Base notes are musk, Virginia cedar and vanilla. 
 
2013 Trésor Midnight Rose in the Love edition. Note the thorns on the “stem".
 

2013 Tresor Eau de Parfum Lumineuse. Created by Dominique Ropion. 
  • Top note is praline
  • Middle notes are Damask rose and violet leaf
  • Base notes are vanilla, woody notes, musk and sandalwood.

2013 Tresor L'Absolu. Discontinued in 2014.
  • Top notes are damask rose and aromatic spices
  • Middle notes are rose, jasmine and patchouli
  • Base notes are benzoin, vanilla and leather. 
 
2013 Tresor Eau de Parfum Lumineuse. Created by Dominique Ropion. Discontinued.
  • Top note is praline
  • Middle notes are damask rose and violet leaf
  • Base notes are vanilla, musk, woody notes and sandalwood. 
 
2014 Tresor L'Eau de Toilette. Created by Dominique Ropion. Discontinued prior to 2019.
  • Top notes are bergamot and peach
  • Middle notes are damask rose, violet, sandalwood, heliotrope and Egyptian jasmine
  • Base notes are milk, musk, patchouli, vanilla, tonka bean and nutmeg.
 
2015 La Nuit Tresor. Created by Christophe Raynaud and Amandine Marie.  30, 50 and 100 ml Eau de Parfum. Discontinued by 2021.
  • Top notes: pear. 
  • Middle notes: Tahitian vanilla orchid absolute and black rose
  • Base notes: patchouli, papyrus, incense, litchi and praline.
 
2015 Tresor Midnight Rose Elixir D’Orient. Created by Anne Filipo. 75 ml Eau de Parfum. Discontinued.
  • Top notes: raspberry, black currant and pink pepper. 
  • Middle notes: rose, jasmine and peony. 
  • Base notes; vanilla, patchouli, cedar and oud. 


2016 La Nuit Tresor Caresse. Created by Christophe Raynaud and Amandine Clerc-Marie. 
  • Top notes are raspberry, litchi, pink pepper and bergamot
  • Middle notes are almond blossom, Damask rose and jasmine
  • Base notes are Tahitian vanilla, tonka bean, orchid, patchouli and white musk.

2017 La Nuit Tresor L'Eau de Toilette. Created by Christophe Raynaud and Amandine Clerc-Marie.
  • Top notes are raspberry, blackberry, litchi, black currant, citruses and bergamot
  • Middle notes are Damask rose, peony and lily-of-the-valley
  • Base notes are Tahitian vanilla, patchouli and white musk.

2018 La Nuit Trésor à la Folie. Created by Christophe Raynaud, Amandine Clerc-Marie and Honorine Blanc. 
  • Top notes are red currant, pink pepper, pear and bergamot
  • Middle notes are Damask rose, violet, peony and jasmine
  • Base notes are Bourbon vanilla, tonka bean, benzoin, nutmeg, Ambroxan, patchouli and woody notes.
2018 La Nuit Tresor L'Eau de Parfum. Created by Christophe Raynaud and Amandine Clerc-Marie. 
  • Top notes are pear, tangerine and bergamot
  • Middle notes are strawberry, passionfruit, vanilla orchid and black rose
  • Base notes are caramel, vanilla, praline, litchi, coffee, patchouli, papyrus, incense, licorice and tonka bean.


2019 La Nuit Trésor Musc Diamant. Created by Christophe Raynaud, Amandine Clerc-Marie and Honorine Blanc. Discontinued.
  • Top notes are white musk, raspberry and violet leaf
  • Middle notes are white musk, Damask rose, freesia and jasmine
  • Base notes are white musk, vanilla, almond, sandalwood and patchouli.

2019 Tresor en Or. Created by Dominique Ropion. 
  • Top note is peach
  • Middle notes are peony, Turkish rose and jasmine
  • Base notes are leather, musk and ambrette (musk mallow)

2020 La Nuit Trésor Nude. This is a new fragrance. Discontinued by 2022.
  • Top note is bergamot
  • Middle note is rose
  • Base notes are coconut and vanilla.

2020 Trésor 30 Years Limited Edition. This is a new fragrance. Created by Sophia Grojsman. 
  • Top notes are lily-of-the-valley, peach, pineapple, lilac, rose, bergamot and apricot blossom
  • Middle notes are heliotrope, rose, violet, iris and jasmine
  • Base notes are apricot, amber, peach, vanilla, sandalwood and musk.

2021 La Nuit Trésor Dentelle de Roses. This is a new fragrance. 
  • Top notes are raspberry and mandarin orange
  • Middle note is rose
  • Base notes are velvet and suede.
2022 La Nuit Trésor Intense. This is a new fragrance. 
  • Top note is Damask rose
  • Middle note is sour cherry
  • Base notes are almond milk, Madagascar vanilla and woodsy notes.

Limited Edition Bottles: 

These bottles are created to be collector's editions. There has been no change in scent, only the bottle is different.

2010 Trésor Diamant Noir. Launched to celebrate Trésor’s 20th anniversary. A limited edition bottle of 20 numbered bottles featuring a hematite cap and a ring of black crystals around the neck. No change to fragrance. Discontinued.

2011 Tresor Edition Limitee Fete des Meres. A limited edition bottle, no change in scent.

2016 La Nuit Tresor Edition Limitee - no change in fragrance, only the bottle is changed.



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