Sunday, December 27, 2015

Qui Sait? by Lancome c1946

Qui Sait? by Lancome: launched in 1937. Created by Armand Petitjean.

Peut-Être ("Perhaps" in French) became Qui Sait ("Who Knows" in French) in 1956, however I have found publications dating to as early as 1946 using the name Qui Sait (US Patent Office info). The reason for the name change is that it would be easier for Americans to pronounce.

The name Qui Sait was used previously by another French perfumer, Lournay in 1925.


Thursday, October 15, 2015

Révolte by Lancome c1936

Révolte by Lancome: launched in 1936. The name means "Uprising" in French, and was originally a perfume for men, but soon, women were taken to wearing it. Reportedly, the name was unpopular in South and Central America as it translated to "anarchy" and "revolution".

It's name was changed to Leather in 1939 as the name Revolt was being used by another company in South America. The perfume was slightly improved, created by Armand Petitjean.

The fragrance was also rebottled into a new bottle.

Saturday, August 1, 2015

Tresor by Lancome c1952

The name Trésor, chosen by Lancôme for their 1952 fragrance, is a word of French origin, pronounced tray-ZOR. It translates to "treasure" in English — a word that evokes images of rare, precious, and deeply cherished things. The very sound of the word carries a sense of elegance and mystery, conjuring visions of ornate, gilded jewelry boxes, sunken riches from distant seas, and priceless heirlooms passed down through generations. Emotionally, Trésor stirs feelings of longing, devotion, and the desire to hold something rare and beautiful close to the heart — the very essence of what a beloved fragrance represents.

The early 1950s were a time of transformation and renewal. In the wake of World War II, society was beginning to embrace a new sense of optimism and femininity. This period is often referred to as the post-war era or the New Look era, heavily influenced by Christian Dior’s groundbreaking 1947 collection that redefined women’s fashion. Dior’s "New Look" featured nipped-in waists, full skirts, and an emphasis on an ultra-feminine silhouette — a striking departure from the utilitarian styles of the wartime years. Women were encouraged to revel in their femininity again, embracing beauty, luxury, and grace.

It was within this cultural backdrop that Trésor emerged, embodying the era's longing for sophistication and sensuality. Perfumes of the time often leaned toward bold, rich compositions that exuded glamour, echoing the opulence seen in fashion and the growing accessibility of luxury goods. While floral fragrances were abundant, semi-oriental blends like Trésor, which combined florals with warmer, more sensual notes like amber and woods, were less common — making it both trend-aware and uniquely memorable. It offered women something that felt precious, sophisticated, and timelessly elegant, aligning with the desire to reclaim beauty and luxury after years of hardship.

Sunday, April 5, 2015

Magie Noire by Lancome c1978

 Magie Noire by Lancôme, launched in 1978 and introduced in the United States by 1981, marked a bold and striking return for the French perfume house, making it the first new fragrance from Lancôme in a decade. The name Magie Noire, meaning "Black Magic" in French, immediately evokes a sense of mystery, allure, and forbidden enchantment. Pronounced “mah-zhee nwahr,” it conjures images of darkness, elegance, and the untamed, carrying a hint of the supernatural. The word "Magie" implies a sense of sorcery or enchantment, while "Noire" evokes the color black, a symbol of mystery and depth. Together, they suggest an aura of seductive, almost otherworldly power—an invitation to something alluring yet hidden from view. This name perfectly aligns with the fragrance's complex and sensual character, drawing on the intrigue of the unknown.

When Magie Noire was released, the world was in the midst of a period known for its intense cultural and social shifts. The late 1970s and early 1980s were times of boldness, self-expression, and liberation, particularly for women. The glam and excess of the 1970s was giving way to the more refined, sophisticated styles of the 1980s, where power dressing and stronger, bolder identities emerged. In this climate, Magie Noire would have resonated with women seeking a fragrance that mirrored the evolving complexities of their own personalities—women who were confident, sensual, and unapologetically independent. The fragrance itself, with its blend of fresh greens, romantic florals, and dark, woody depths, was designed for women who were in touch with both their sensuality and their strength. It was a perfume for the woman who embraced her mystery, who reveled in her complexity, and who found beauty in the darker, more enigmatic aspects of life.
 



In terms of scent, Magie Noire stands apart from many fragrances of its era. While other perfumes of the time leaned into either light florals or more overpowering, sweet orientals, Magie Noire presented a truly unique contrast. The fragrance opens with the sharp, green freshness of galbanum and green notes, which bring a crisp, almost invigorating energy. This freshness is immediately balanced by the luxurious and romantic depth of Bulgarian rose, complemented by jasmine and ylang-ylang, which introduce a velvety floral heart. The base of Magie Noire is where its true magic lies—rich, earthy woods like cedarwood and sandalwood create a solid foundation, while patchouli adds an intoxicating depth, mingling with musky ambergris and sophisticated spices. This combination of fresh, floral, and woody notes creates a multi-layered experience that feels both modern and timeless, capturing the essence of the period while transcending it.

Magie Noire was certainly unique for its time. While it shared some characteristics with the popular oriental fragrances of the era, it differed in its balance of sharp freshness and rich, sensual depth. This duality gave it a distinctive place in the perfume market, appealing to women who sought something bold and memorable, yet also refined. The fragrance's complexity and depth made it a beloved classic, with a longevity that ensured its place in Lancôme's storied legacy of iconic perfumes.